Some weekends are planned in advance, while others are decided on a Thursday evening. The five routes we've selected are perfect for both. Completely self-sufficient, with bivouacs or mountain huts depending on your preference, on terrain that's truly worth the trip. May is ideal for each type of trip.

01 — Le Queyras, Hautes-Alpes
The kind of place where you realize the Alps haven't revealed all their secrets yet. Deep valleys, villages clinging to the mountainside, and in May, snow still clinging to the peaks. No crowds, no noise.
Useful information
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Departure |
Ceillac (1 640 m) — parking du village |
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Arrival |
Return to Ceillac (loop) |
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Distance |
~42 km |
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Elevation gain |
+2 800 m / −2 800 m |
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Duration |
3 days |
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Level |
Intermediate to advanced |
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Best time |
May to October (May: snow possible on mountain passes) |
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Accommodation |
Free bivouac · Blanche Refuge · Agnel Refuge |
The 3 steps
Stage 1 — Ceillac → Lac Sainte-Anne (14 km · +1,100 m · 5h)
Starting from the village of Ceillac, one of the most beautiful villages in the Hautes-Alpes, the trail climbs the Mélezet valley through larch forests before opening onto alpine pastures. Lake Sainte-Anne, perched at 2,415 meters, is one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in the Queyras region—in May, it is still surrounded by snow. You can camp by the lake or descend to the Refuge de la Blanche (30 minutes lower).
Don't miss it: The Sainte-Anne chapel on the lake shore, dating from the 14th century. Sunrise over the lake if you camp there.
Stage 2 — Lac Sainte-Anne → Abriès via Col Fromage (16 km · +900 m · 6h)
The most challenging day of the circuit. The Col Fromage (2,907 m) is snow-covered in May—lightweight crampons are recommended depending on conditions. Once over the pass, the descent to Abriès offers breathtaking views of Monte Viso and the Italian border. Abriès is a lively village with several places to buy supplies.
Don't miss it: The panorama from Col Fromage overlooking Mont Viso (3,841 m), the king of the Cottian Alps on the Italian side.
Stage 3 — Abriès → Ceillac via the Col Agnel (12 km · +800 m · 4h30)
Return via the higher elevations. The Col Agnel (2,744 m) marks the Franco-Italian border — in May, you often cross through snow. The descent to Ceillac via the hamlet of Bramousse is one of the most beautiful ends to a hike in the massif.
Don't miss it: The hamlet of Bramousse, one of the oldest perched hamlets in Queyras, with its dry stone houses.
Logistics
- Access : From Gap or Briançon, then D902 to Ceillac. 3 hours from Paris (TGV Lyon + car).
- Refueling: Ceillac and Abriès. Bring 3 days' worth of food if camping.
- Weather report : In May, conditions change rapidly at altitude. Always bring a waterproof layer and gloves.
- Mapping: IGN TOP25 — 3637OT Guillestre / Mont-Dauphin
- Agnel Refuge: Reservations recommended — +33 (0)4 92 46 80 25

02 — Belledonne, Isère
A discreet mountain range an hour from Grenoble, which even locals don't explore enough. High-altitude lakes still encircled by snow, demanding terrain, and panoramas that make you forget the climb.
Useful information
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Departure |
Prapoutel / Les 7 Laux (1,350 m) |
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Arrival |
Return to Prapoutel (loop) |
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Distance |
~38 km |
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Elevation gain |
+2 600 m / −2 600 m |
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Duration |
3 days |
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Level |
Confirmed |
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Best time |
June to October (May: heavy snow, crampons necessary) |
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Accommodation |
Free bivouac · Refuge Jean Collet · Refuge de la Pra |
The 3 steps
Stage 1 — Prapoutel → Refuge de la Pra (13 km · +1,200 m · 5h)
Starting from Les Septs Laux, a ski resort deserted in May — the ideal setting for a hike without crowds. The trail climbs steadily through fir forests before reaching the Lacs des Sept Laux, still frozen in May. The Refuge de la Pra (2,227 m) is open from the beginning of May — a simple and efficient welcome.
Don't miss it: The lakes of the 7 Laux at sunset. The reflections on the ice in May create a unique light that can only be seen at this time of year.
Stage 2 — Refuge de la Pra → Col de la Croix (Upper Loop) (14 km · +900 m · 6h)
The most technical day. The Col de la Croix de Belledonne (2,926 m) is often snow-covered in May—it's here that the massif truly reveals its character. 360° views of the Écrins, Mont Blanc, and Vercors. Wild, rocky terrain. The descent leads to the Refuge Jean Collet for the night.
Don't miss it: The view from the pass over the Belledonne range to the south — one of the most beautiful panoramas in the Pre-Alps.
Stage 3 — Jean Collet Refuge → Prapoutel (11 km · +500 m · 4h)
A gentle return via the northern ridges of Belledonne, with beautiful views of Grenoble and the Isère valley. The final descent passes near the lakes again before returning to the starting car park.
Don't miss it: The ibex that frequent the Belledonne ridges — in May they come down from the most exposed areas.
Logistics
- Access : From Grenoble, take the D523 then the D280 to Prapoutel. 45 minutes from Grenoble.
- Refueling: None along the way — plan everything at the start.
- Special equipment in May: Lightweight crampons (microspike type) and hiking poles are essential.
- Mapping: IGN TOP25 — 3334OT Domène / Plateau des Petites Rousses
- Refuge de la Pra: +33 (0)4 76 71 17 05 (opening in May under certain conditions)

03 — Mercantour — Valley of Wonders
A landscape unlike anywhere else in France. Lunar, silent, almost unreal. 4,000-year-old engravings on the stones. It's an experience to be had at least once in a lifetime.
Useful information
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Departure |
Saint-Dalmas-de-Tende (700 m) or lac des Mesches (1,380 m) |
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Arrival |
Return to the starting point (loop) |
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Distance |
~45 km |
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Elevation gain |
+2 400 m / −2 400 m |
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Duration |
3 days |
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Level |
Intermediate |
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Best time |
June to September (May: partial access depending on snow conditions) |
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Accommodation |
Valmasque Refuge · Wonders Refuge |
The 3 steps
Stage 1 — Lac des Mesches → Refuge des Merveilles (12 km · +900 m · 4h30)
The hike starts from Lac des Mesches, accessible by car from Tende. The trail climbs gradually through pine forests before reaching the lunar landscape of the Vallée des Merveilles. The refuge (2,111 m) is staffed from June to September; in May, check opening times beforehand.
Don't miss it: The first rock engravings appear as soon as you approach the refuge. More than 40,000 engravings are recorded in the area — the oldest date back to the Early Bronze Age (3000 BC).
Stage 2 — Valley of Wonders → Mont Bégo and Lac Noir (15 km · +800 m · 6h)
The key day of the circuit. Mont Bégo (2,872 m) was a sacred place for ancient peoples—the engravings are concentrated on its slopes. A completely mineral landscape, treeless, almost Martian. The nearby Lac Noir offers an exceptional wild bivouac if the Refuge des Merveilles is closed.
Don't miss it: The area of the Mont Bégo engravings — visit with a guide or independently with a detailed IGN map. Some areas are protected and marked.
Important: The rock engravings are classified. It is forbidden to touch them or walk on them.
Stage 3 — Lac Noir → Saint-Dalmas via the Valley of the Roya (18 km · +300 m · 5h)
A long, gradual descent through the Gordolasque valley. The trail follows streams and crosses larch forests before reaching the valley floor road. A Mediterranean landscape that contrasts sharply with the rocky terrain of the previous days.
Don't miss it: The medieval village of Tende at the end of the circuit — Gothic cathedral and cobbled streets to explore after 3 days at altitude.
Logistics
- Access : From Nice, take the train to Saint-Dalmas-de-Tende (Cuneo line), then a shuttle or taxi to Lac des Mesches. 1 hour 45 minutes from Nice.
- Regulation : The Valley of Wonders is in the heart of the Mercantour National Park. Bivouacking is regulated (more than 1 hour from the refuge, 1 night max in the same place).
- Guide : Highly recommended for the engraving area — several approved guides in Tende.
- Mapping: IGN TOP25 — 3841OT Vésubie Valley / Upper Tinée
- Refuge of Wonders: +33 (0)4 93 04 64 64

04 — Tour of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, Pyrenees
The Pic du Midi d'Ossau is recognizable at first glance. Three days in a loop around it, between refuges and passes, in one of the most beautiful routes in the massif.
Useful information
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Departure |
Gabas (1,027 m) — Bious-Artigues dam parking lot |
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Arrival |
Return to Gabas (loop) |
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Distance |
~42 km |
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Elevation gain |
+2 700 m / −2 700 m |
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Duration |
3 days |
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Level |
Intermediate |
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Best time |
May to October (May: ideal conditions, few people) |
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Accommodation |
Ayous Refuge · Pombie Refuge · Bious Refuge |
The 3 steps
Étape 1 — Gabas → Refuge d'Ayous (12 km · +900 m · 4h)
Starting from the Bious-Artigues dam, with a direct view of the Pic du Midi right from the start. The trail climbs steadily past the Ayous lakes, one of the most photographed sites in the Pyrenees—and for good reason. In May, snow still clings to the lake shores, and the Pic du Midi is reflected in the still water.
Don't miss it: Sunrise from the Ayous Refuge on the Pic du Midi — the reflection in Lake Gentau at 2,000 m is an image that cannot be missed.
Stage 2 — Ayous Refuge → Pombie Refuge via the Peyreget Pass (16 km · +1,100 m · 6h)
The most challenging day. The Col de Peyreget (2,208 m) offers the most panoramic view of the two dikes of the Pic du Midi—the Grand Pic and the Petit Pic. Descent to the Refuge de Pombie (2,032 m), perched opposite the east face of the Pic. In May, Pyrenean chamois (isards) are numerous in this area.
Don't miss it: Chamois on the ridges around the Pic — in May, with their young, they are particularly active and observable.
Stage 3 — Pombie Refuge → Gabas via Lake Bious (14 km · +700 m · 4h30)
Return via the southern ridges of the Pic, passing through the Col Long de Magnabaigt. Gradual descent to Lake Bious-Artigues — an artificial lake in an exceptional natural setting. In May, the rhododendrons begin to bloom on the slopes.
Don't miss it: The rhododendrons are in bloom on the descent towards Gabas — in May they are just beginning, it's the ideal window before the July crowds.
Logistics
- Access : From Pau, take the D934 to Laruns, then the D231 to Gabas. 1 hour from Pau. From Paris: TGV to Pau + car.
- Shuttle : In summer, there is a shuttle bus from Gabas to the Bious-Artigues dam. In May, check availability — often accessible by car.
- Wildlife: Griffon vultures, chamois and perhaps a bearded vulture if you are lucky.
- Mapping: IGN TOP25 — 1547OT Ossau / Aspe Valley
- Pombie Refuge: +33 (0)5 59 05 31 78 (opening mid-May depending on snow conditions)

05 — GR20 Corse — Section Nord
Europe's most legendary trail, in an accessible version. Three days on the northern section are enough to understand why no one comes back quite the same.
Useful information
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Departure |
Calenzana (275 m) |
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Arrival |
Carozzu or Haut-Asco refuge (1,420 m) |
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Distance |
~36 km (first 3 stages of the GR20) |
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Elevation gain |
+3 100 m / −2 000 m |
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Duration |
3 days |
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Level |
Confirmed to expert |
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Best time |
May to October (May: ideal — not crowded, cool, no Corsican heat) |
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Accommodation |
Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu · Refuge de Carozzu |
The 3 steps
Stage 1 — Calenzana → Ortu di u Piobbu Refuge (12 km · +1,350 m · 6h)
The first stage of the GR20 is known to be one of the most difficult—and it's true. Starting from the village of Calenzana (accessible from Île-Rousse or Calvi), the trail immediately climbs into the Corsican maquis, followed by a sustained ascent to the refuge perched at 1,570 meters. The terrain is technical, and the rocks are slippery in wet weather. But the views of the Mediterranean and Cap Corse stretching out below are breathtaking.
Don't miss it: The Corsican maquis in bloom in May — rockroses, lavender, immortelles. The scent is impossible to describe. This is Corsica at its finest.
Stage 2 — Ortu di u Piobbu → Carozzu Refuge (13 km · +900 m · 6h)
The wildest stage. The trail crosses high mountain areas in Corsica—red granite, abandoned sheepfolds, crystal-clear streams. The Bocca Innominata (1,731 m) offers a 360° view of the Monte Cinto massif (the highest peak in Corsica). The descent to Carozzu through the Bonifatu forest is one of the most beautiful sections of the GR20.
Don't miss it: The pozzines — these marshy meadows pierced by micro-lakes characteristic of Corsica — which appear on this section and nowhere else.
Stage 3 — Carozzu Refuge → Haut-Asco (11 km · +850 m · 5h30)
The most technical stage of this section. Passing through the Bocca di Stagnu (1,980 m) and crossing an exposed scree slope. Descent to the abandoned Asco ski resort—in May, snow may still cover the ridges. This stage offers a taste of what the GR20 is like at its most challenging.
Don't miss: Corsican mouflons around the Carozzu refuge and on the ridges of Asco — the emblematic animal of Corsica in complete freedom.
Logistics
- Access: Flight to Calvi (Calvi-Sainte-Catherine airport) or Bastia, then shuttle or taxi to Calenzana. 20 min from Calvi.
- Return from Haut-Asco: Taxi or carpooling from the station. Plan ahead — availability is limited.
- Essential equipment: High-top hiking boots with rigid soles (technical rocky terrain), poles, bivouac kit if the shelters are full.
- PNRC mountain huts: Booking required via the website of the Corsican Regional Natural Park (pnr-corse.frIn May, places are available but booking is still recommended.
- Mapping: IGN TOP25 — 4149OT Calvi / Monte Cinto
- Ortu de u Piobbu Refuge: PNRC reservation — +33 (0)4 95 48 68 71
Recommended equipment for these 5 hikes
The bare essentials
- Backpack 40-50L
- Lightweight tent or bivouac sleeping bag
- High-top hiking boots
- Telescopic poles
- Waterproof jacket and mid-layer
- Headlamp + spare batteries
- First aid kit
- IGN map + compass (or GPS)
- Water: 2L minimum + purification tablets
- Food for 3 days if camping
Specific to May
- Lightweight microspike-type crampons (Queyras, Belledonne)
- High SPF sunscreen (UV rays are more intense at altitude)
- Lightweight gaiters (residual snow)
- Additional thermal layer (cool nights at altitude)
