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Machard's knot
The Machard knot is a self-locking knot. It is named after its inventor, Serge Machard. It can be made using a 6 to 8mm cord ring, also called a twine. If you don't want to make this ring yourself, be aware that some equipment manufacturers offer this loop for sale directly. It is mainly the difference in diameter between the rope and the twine used that will determine the effectiveness of the installation. Flexibility can also have an impact on the locking. Also, pure Dyneema core + sheath cords should not be used for this purpose, as Dyneema has the property of being very slippery, so it should be avoided. Once placed on the rope, it will serve as a backup for rappelling or for rope operations such as hauling. Or should it be placed on the rope in the case of rappelling? Here too, you can see two assemblies. Before or after the belay system The safest option is to place the Machard knot under the brake. This setup allows you to put all the weight on the metal brake and slide the rope into the Machard. If you need to use both hands during the descent or in the event of an accident resulting in loss of mobility, the Machard knot will become tense and lock into the brake. Otherwise, if the Machard is above the brake, it will take all the climber's weight and significantly accelerate its wear.
